I don't want to go deeper into it. Hi Jaap, I would suggest the Astronomik CLS EOS clip filter or the IDAS LPS clip filter from Hutech for your DSLR. I was sorry to see about your father, I give you my condolences. I recently bought a used Canon T5i full spectrum modified which came with the Skytech CLS-CCD clip in filter. There are a few options here, including shooting a number of image frames using the LPRO Max filter, or IDAS. It is perfectly fine to use a mono for Ha only without a filter wheel and an OSC or DSLR to capture all the colors in one go. It is a nice article and I would appreciate your interaction Mine is too much editing and not enough exposure. Many DSLR astrophotography enthusiasts live in areas away from large cities, or perhaps on an island where vast views over a large body of water are available. Dec You definitely proved that a modified camera is not a requirement. Bortle 4 according to lightpollution map. I think it shows two things: one, how sensitive and productive "ordinary" digital cameras can be and two, how easily we can convince ourselves that unless we use the "latest and greatest and totally optimized", we won't get "good enough" results. Equipment: 180mm Maksutov, ZWO 1600mm camera. Just after some advice. Horsehead and Flame Nebula by Ryan Proctor, Wakefield, UK. In some cases you see a flare in the image. The emission line of double ionized oxygen is a blueish green or teal color. However, the amount of overall light filtered is evident. All the best man. I live in Southern California and as you can imagine light pollution is heavy, but I do travel to Nevada alot and shooting in the desert would prove to be much better for reduced light pollution. Those of you who shoot Milky Way panoramics using a wide angle camera lens will benefit from the LPRO Max filter with its natural sky and star color qualities. Theses are sold under the name 600D and 800D respectively in Europe. If you don't know what Bortle scale you have clearoutside.com will give you an estimation. The LPRO Max and CLS filters offer a wider band-pass for more natural looking stars. There are plenty of bright Ha objects. The photo above is a stacked composite of 11 images shot using the SkyTech CLS-CCD filter, and a wide angle camera lens. The LPRO max filter would be best used in a rural environment with a pleasing landscape, rather than a backyard in the city. See the composite version of both data sets. I'm sure someone more proficient would be able to tease more detail out of the image. The transmission curves to me look to be pretty similar. I decided I would give this object a fair kick in the can. Equipment: Evostar 80 mm f/7.5 ED APO Refractor Sky-Watcher 0.85X Reducer/Corrector HEQ5 Telescope Mount Unmodified Nikon D5300 DSLR Orion Startshoot Autoguider Composition: 85 lights 150 seconds at ISO 200 20 flats 15 darks Processing: Stacked in DeepSkyStacker Processed in StarTools Binoculars and small telescopes will show this nebula as a faint, foggy patch of light. Anyway, I do have a link to an excellent video that shows the process of modding: As a newbie, this is very interesting to me. ES ED80 Canon Xsi unmodded 54 x 3 Min Frames @ iso 1600 Stacked with Dark Frames in DeepSkyStacker, Processed in PS CS5 Imagine what you could accomplish in moderately light polluted skies? NGC 1499 - The California Nebula. Well written! Will be nice to see the progress and different looks you can get re-shooting the same targets later with narrowband for example. IC434 Horsehead Nebula by Simon Todd, Haywards Heath, UK. Traditional light pollution filters designed to help you photograph deep sky objects in broadband (true-color) are useful, but a hydrogen-alpha, Continue Reading Use a DSLR Ha Filter for AstrophotographyContinue, The clouds have parted, and I have enjoyed 2 cold, clear nights of astrophotography back-to-back! Current lenses I have are EF 50mm f/1.8, EF 10-18mm f/4.5-5.6 IS, and EF 70-200 f/4 IS. It was a nightmare to process, however. The h-alpha wavelength is very important to amateur astrophotographers, as many deep-sky objects such as the Eagle Nebula emit a strong signal in this bandpass. The North America Nebula is observable to those living in the northern hemisphere, in the constellation Cygnus the Swan. The Moon. The sensor size of a crop-sensor (and especially a full-frame) is larger than the ones youll find in most one-shot-color astronomy cameras. A light pollution filter, especially one with a narrow band-pass that isolates hydrogen-alpha (h-alpha) light is best. I refocus after 1 hours and after that when the temperature has change more than 5C with my longer ones. The short one does not need refocus at all. Also, the stars are small and sharp due to the UV/IR qualities of the SkyTech CLS-CCD filter. It's all about knowing the options. Im a bit confused. I guess with my budget and choice of equipment i have much more to learn. Ask other users what they do. Thanks Josh (neighbour!) It is perfectly possible to take decent images of the night sky with an unmodified camera. If it was 80 degrees out it would be a different story. The framing you choose may vary widely from the ones shown on this page, depending on the magnification of the optical instrument used. You can focus very accurate to maximum intensity with this method for a short focal length. All of those thoughts disappeared as I began to process my photo of NGC 1499 yesterday. The trick for a good first image is to pick an object that is large and bright. Without a B-mask use live view on the camera display and go for 10x mag and reduce exposure time until the star is dim. I have a D5200, and shot (mostly)Heart and Soul nebula using a Ioptron Skytracker. For an emission nebula like this, an image with a stock camera vs. modified is night and day. But rabbit holes are everywhere! So my question is why go with the CLS-CCD over the CLS for modded cameras? Can you explain the dependency? I think the Astronomik CLS will work well for Jaap too, especially compared to unfiltered shots in LP. Mine was very pale in the center but I really like the way it turned out. @T~stew, Starnet++ is amazing, without that I would not have been able to process the image to show the nebula so well without completely blowing up the stars. Suggestions for easy targets for unmodded dslr (unguided)?? Are these strictly for APS-C? You might give the Rosette a try if the Heart doesn't work out. Then I used a generous gift from my colleagues on my retirement to get a cooled OSC with the same size chip. Shots like this get me really excited. To find out what the field of view will be for your camera sensor and telescope, I recommend visiting the resources page for some helpful tools. Galaxies consist of stars mainly but galaxies also have star forming regions that typically show strong Ha emissions. By Thank You Trevor, one last question. I was thinking that the reason for modding was to allow more IR on to the sensor and the CLS-CCD clips more IR than the CLS. If you go for a full spectrum mod the chromatic aberration of UV and IR will blur your image when you have a refractor. Thats the problem with giving advice when you are still learning yourself, its not always the best. Total Exposure: 1 Hour, 18 Minutes With 1000mm + you only need something like 10 bars. So, your images may look better or worse depending on the amount of light pollution you deal with. Others (like myself) are not so lucky. Beginners cannot know if that is caused by flaws in the data or lack of processing skills. Clear skies! 4. Understanding an Unmodified DSLR limitations and target selection - posted in Beginning Deep Sky Imaging: So a few weeks ago, I captured some data on the North American Nebula with my Nikon D5300 (unmodded) and a WO Z73. Well done my friend. The North America Nebula is the perfect target for a 135mm lens. I have been imaging for about 4 months. Equipment: Unmodded Canon 450D, Sigma 120-400mm lens @120mm, HEQ5 Pro . h and Chi in Perseus. The North America Nebula and Pelican Nebula at 105mm. For sure I will. Still many regard it as one of the most beautiful sights in our night sky. I shot the Heart and Soul with my stock Canon 6D and UHC filter. The LPRO Max is an interesting option for those who wish to create starry landscape images of the Milky Way. Some professional modders have an agreement with some brands that warranty does not void. The Milky Way. I think that the dual colour is much nicer in your image. An off-the-shelf DSLR works splendidly for most astro-imaging. Often objects emit Ha and O-III. Canon T3i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 71x2min, ISO 800, M8. Specifically for D7200. Here is the RAW image data collected using the SkyTech CLS-CCD filter on through a 50mm Camera Lens. The stars near the center are the oldest. Thanks Peter.I was thinking the same when I first started imaging it. The CLS-CCD filter improves the visibility of deep sky objects while blocking out a great deal of city glow. Ayman thank you! Now I won't be overly concerned with my stock DSLR. From 2011 through 2014, I spent a lot of time at my local astronomy clubs observatory. If we want to make this hobby work, we need to get creative. The Optolong L-eXtreme filter isolates the H-alpha (Ha),, Continue Reading Optolong L-eXtreme Filter ReviewContinue, After almost a decade of taking pictures of space with a DSLR camera, I have come to the realization that a DSLR Ha filter is quite possibly the most important astrophotography filter in your kit. Sure, modified, and dedicated astrocams have many advantages, and I hope to have one sometime. There are good reasons not to do it, for example the camera is used for daytime photography as well or the budget does not allow either to have an existing camera modified or get a modified one. So even without the Ha regions the images do not suffer from lack of color. Just wondering from your experience with them if you noticed one to be better then the other for light pollution and for color cast and crispness. Bortle 2 skies and some new processing methods sure helped bring out those wispy details I love so much. Nice job, Was this it? Isn't a link to modding somewhat misplaced here? Galaxies are another favourite but most are either too big - m31 - or too small to get good shots without extra magnification like m82/81 or sculptor galaxy. The location of the California Nebula in Perseus. Having said this, my Camera should be operated at ISO 1600 (if we are to follow the logic described on the website), but I have come to the conclusion that ISO 800 works well for me. These are from my first real attempt at DSOs with my setup I bought years ago. There have never been so many choices available, with each one offering their own advantages and disadvantages. They also work very well on star clusters (both open and globular), reflection nebulae, and most galaxies. Please re-enable javascript to access full functionality. It takes a region of about 30' in the sky, which is a bit larger than the size of the Full Moon. https://www.astrobin.com/3rd1bt/. Based off of the extremely popular EOS R, the EOS Ra boasts unique features such as 30x magnification (viewfinder and Live View) for precise, Continue Reading Canon EOS Ra ReviewContinue, This is an old post from my early adventures in deep sky astrophotography before I had a backyard to call my own. The North America Nebula (DSLR camera and telescope). It is often recommended to modify DSLR's for deep sky photography. But having said that, a dedicated astrocam does have additional benefits and dont get me started on mono cameras. Veil Nebula from bortle 2 skies with unmodded DSLR Hey Trevor, Just wanted to say thanks for the awesome videos and keep them comingsaving too buy my first telescope, a skywatcher esprit 100ed and an eq6-r proam hooked:-), Thank you Avis! When imaged together with the nearby Running Man nebula an unmodded camera can even be superior because it dims the bright Orion Nebula down a bit so that the blueish running man appears brighter in the image. It lets enough natural light pass through to the sensor for natural colors, with the added benefit of reducing city glow. It is suitable for deep-sky imaging with a telescope, and night sky photography with a camera lens. North America Nebula. How much better can I go with just a DSLR? Any ideas about that? From the northern hemisphere, the best time to observe and photograph the North America Nebula is from June September. You can find many of these images on my website 'elf-of-lothlorien.de'. I recommend you get a used modded camera or get a new one from a professional store. I believe the image is useful to those looking to frame up this target using a telephoto camera lens or a wide-field telescope. The electronics glows in infrared. (I thought the same thing). The Rokinon 135mm F/2 ED UMC lens frames up this 120 x 100 arc-minute-wide nebula, the Pelican Nebula, with room to spare. I have a Canon 6Ti. This is a fortunate occurrence that doesnt come very often, especially during a Canadian winter. I also combined narrowband h-alpha data collected using a Rokinon 135mm F/2 lens (at F/3.2) and my Canon EOS T3i DSLR. Ive done a little research already but if I would like to hear an opinion from anyone then Ill put my bet on you, bro. Some recommend not to fully attach the lens so that the contacts do not engage. Even with the use of a light pollution filter, we must then bring the final stacked image into Photoshop for image processing. I live in a medium-sized city in Southern Ontario. Powered by Invision Community. Here's the very last image I took using my Lumix G9 as my camera: That's just over 1.5 hours of integration under my Bortle 6 skies. The camera lens used was a Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 lens (Shot at f/2.8) This photo was captured through extremely heavy light pollution using the SkyTech CLS filter in the DSLR. Before you go down the modded route, try a 7 or 8 minute exposure at the observatory. I really appreciate the detail you went into for . I will be using lenses over telescopes for the moment. If you shoot DSLR deep sky astrophotography with a modified Canon camera, the SkyTech CLS-CCD is a must. I love planetary nebulas, but obviously an unmodded dslr restricts these targets. The SkyTech Astrophotography Filters are Available at Ontario Telescope and Accessories. Article: Beginner's Astrophotography: Can I use my unmodified DSLR? I just would like to show what can be done with an unmodded relatively low priced DSLR if modding is not an option. I also live in a red LP area, and would like some advice. I have been really enjoying your YouTube videos. The North America Nebula (Cataloged as NGC 7000 or Caldwell 20) is a large emission nebula in the constellation Cygnus. In the video below you will see actual results using the CLS-CCD filter using my DSLR and telescope. Ive learned a lot more about clip-in DSLR light pollution filters since then. Light Pollution from Niagara Falls is to my East, and Toronto to the North. M42 and Running Man. How many subs and what total integration time did you have? For you situation I would suggest the SkyTech L-Pro version as it renders the best colors for starscapes. Was my first proper night guiding, I was thrilled being able to shoot this! The main compromise involved in using a DSLR instead of a dedicated astronomical camera is temperature regulation. Canon T3i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 71x2min, ISO 800 M8. I suspect it is much like a blind wine-tasting between bottles costing a few euros or dollars and those costing 10 times the price. I use an Eos 60da camera. Canon T7i, TS 65mm Imaging Star, f/6.5, 40x30sec, ISO 400. As you'll be able to tell from the photo below, the California Nebula is not one of them. I'm still beginner at processing, so that is just the 'first revision', hope I can improve it yet! Of course there are more objects suitable for unmodded cameras like dark nebulae or planets but alas I do not have any image of those. I did about an hour and a half of integration (iso400 and subs of 180s). For star clusters I will go down to ISO 400, to increase the dynamic range, and due to the fact that we do not need to extract much faint data, it is more important to extract more dynamic range for such a specific target. I own an Optolong UHC filter which has gaving me lots of good results but, when I try to use it for wide angle landscapes pointing at cities, I am really struggling to get good results. Jaap Spigt, the Netherlands. To capture the intense hydrogen gas of this interstellar cloud, long exposure images must be captured on a tracking equatorial mount. The shape of this nebula looks a lot like the continent it was named after and covers an area more than four times the size of the full moon. The question is, will getting my camera modded make a significant difference to the image. Going to a dark place helps much more than any fine tuning of settings. They show up as pink dots in the spiral arms. Canon T7i, Askar FMA180 at f/4.5, 60x5min, ISO 200, North America Nebula. have you heard about any good filters for Nikon cameras? I hope you have found this resource useful in your on-going passion for capturing the night sky. It lets enough natural light pass through to the sensor for natural colors, with the added benefit of reducing city glow. Open Cluster NGC2237 and Rosette Nebula. Would you recommend the following clip-filter? I am a beginner at AP using my Nikon D5300 (unmodded). Oh, I added an L-eNhance for fun. The IDAS seems to outperform the Astronomik but is more expensive. Thanks for the article! That is the magic of a light pollution filter. This glowing nebula is so large and well-defined, its no wonder amateur astrophotographers like me return to Cygnus year after year. A Skytech CLS-CCD filter was used to help reduce the city glow and capture more contrast in the nebula. Several functions may not work. Very likely your first processed image will not look like a Hubble image. Mind sharing with a newbie?Im trying to understand ISO selection and what drives the decision? After looking at Astro Modifications Astros website and see he actually has a T3i full spectrum for sale, was kind of interested. I enjoy following you on Youtube. Rosette Nebula Unmodded DSLR help - Getting Started With Imaging @Rocklobster thanks, I saw your image on your thread. Youll have to see who will ship those products to your location, of course. The core of our Milky Way galaxy has returned to our night sky here in the Northern Hemisphere, and with it comes many celestial delights such as the, Continue Reading HaRGB AstrophotographyContinue, Your email address will not be published. Thanks for you compliment! The Temperature helped no doubt, the motto of the evening was "Why cool your chip, when ypou can cool the world around you?".. Canon T7i, GSO RC8 at f/6, 158x5min, ISO 400. Due to the extreme light pollution from my backyard, Ive decided to create a grey-scale version of my image. You could mount your 100-400mm lens on there for some long exposure imaging. Clear skies! The question is whether to go for a modded or for an OSC astro or for a mono astro camera. For a longer focal length you have to correct focus now and then because a few degrees temperature change can bring you out of focus. We also display the single shot obtained with each camera and all acquisition details. Right now, some of the first stars to, Continue Reading Finding Darker SkiesContinue, Backyard Astrophotography Summer would not be complete without spending a night enjoying the dazzling beauty that is the constellation Sagittarius. 2. To make matters worse, I live almost directly in the center of town. These have been reprocessed for this article without the use of Ha data.
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